Last weekend, while enjoying the generous hospitality of two new Japanese friends, I made a terrible mistake. We were talking about Tengu, and the festival in their honour held yearly in Shimokitazawa where I’m currently living. Having read something on this subject in the guidebook, I piped up brightly and said, ‘Tengu are yokai, aren’t they?’
The room fell silent. ‘No,’ said my host. ‘Not yokai. Gods.’

Yikes. Knowing that the gods of Japan may always be listening, it was obvious that a reparative gesture was in order. So, a couple of days later, I dutifully set off up Mount Takao – a known Tengu habitat and the location of a temple dedicated to them – to apologise.
It was a public holiday, and thousands of people were visiting the mountain to admire its beautiful autumn colours.

From the chairlift the scenery looked spectacular…

But as I climbed past the shrines to the summit I heard disapproving tutting sounds coming from the shrubbery…

I gulped. Tengu are known, among other things, to be fearsome martial artists. I knew that if I didn’t tread carefully I would be in serious trouble.

There are two kinds of Tengu. Above left, you can see a Karasu-tengu or ‘Raven-tengu’ – “the footsoldiers and enforcers of the Tengu world,” according to the book. He didn’t look happy. On the right stands a Hanadaka-tengu or ‘Longnose Tengu’, said to be even more powerful. He didn’t exactly look pleased to see me either.

In both Japanese and English and as humbly as I could, I apologised for my disrespect. The Hanadaka-tengu gave me a look…

…and then turned away.

‘A Hanadaku-tengu’, (the guidebook says), ‘would rarely indulge in wanton violence. Instead it prefers to play tricks on its prey, often in an attempt to teach a wayward soul a lesson. Quite often the victims of this mischief are spirited away to some far-flung location.’
Can I dare to hope that the Tengu will show mercy, given that I’m at a far-flung location already?

I’m not counting on it. And I’ll watch my tongue in future.
Sam
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